Pulino’s Bar & Pizzeria – New York, NY

by PizzaSnobo on October 22, 2010

282 Bowery
New York, NY  10012
212-226-1966
http://www.pulinosny.com


Keith McNally, the restaurateur behind Pulino’s, knows how to stick with a good thing once he finds it. Walk into the restaurant, which is on the corner of Bowery and Houston Street, and you might think you’ve accidentally stepped into Balthazar. Or Pastis. Or Schiller’s. Loud, chaotic, crowded and with a good bar scene, Pulino’s is a fun, happening addition to the New York pizza scene. They even take reservations, which we suggest you take advantage of.

Everything about the pizza ($14 for 12 inches) is thin: the crust, the layer of cheese, even the glaze of sauce. The crust has a nice texture, neither crunchy nor too soft, though its flavor doesn’t jump out. The cheese was good, but didn’t impress us either. Perhaps in the same way that its already legendary sister restaurant Minetta Tavern (which opened in 2009) uses a variety of beef cuts to create some of the best hamburgers around, Pulino’s should consider making a creative mixture of cheeses for their pizzas. That said, one of our favorite parts of a Pulino’s pie is that the tangy sauce goes right up to the edges. If you’re sharing one of these pies with a friend, keep in mind that the center portion is the best, as that is where the moisture pools.

Be sure to try the hot oil on the table. Not too spicy, it’s one of the greatest condiments you’ll ever put on a pizza.


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