Co. – New York, NY

by PizzaSnobo on October 18, 2010

230 Ninth Avenue
New York, NY  10001

Co., pronounced Company, is a nice edition to the gourmet pizza restaurant boom that has invaded New York City over the past couple of years. Perhaps this upscale surge is to be expected, since so many pizzerias from a decade ago and more are now gone, replaced by pizza ovens that have been inserted into ubiquitous corner delis. Co., on the other hand, does not try to be all things to all people, specializing in top shelf pizza and great service. There is also a nice, if somewhat expensive wine list. Tables are long and you may find yourself sitting next to people you don’t know – it’s all part of that Co., company, communal atmosphere.

We didn’t have a ruler with us, but we were informed by two different staffers that the pies ($13) are 11 inches across. The best part of the pizza by far was the crust. This did not come as a surprise as the owner of Co. also owns the near-legendary Sullivan Street Bakery. Unfortunately, the bread is where the excellence ended. While Co. uses top shelf ingredients and arguably has one of the best ovens (i.e. most expensive) in the city, we did not find the sauce or the cheese bursting with flavor. It was good and fresh, but overall, the pizza didn’t mesh together to overcome the sum of its parts.

Unlike a more sedate pizza restaurant, say at Veloce, Co. was playing alt rock the night we were there, which was loud, but not so loud that we had to shout over the music.

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